Alpine Cheese Gnocchini

Stefan Hampl

by Stefan Hampl

Story

As someone who originated from the Austrian province of Vorarlberg, the only thing I am missing abroad in terms of cuisine is “Käsknöpfle” (an outstanding cheese dish that only awkwardly translates into other languages). Despite the diverse and highly developed gastronomy around the world, this former “poor people’s food” is de facto unavailable elsewhere. The fact that other dishes related to it, such as various types of cheese dumplings or cheese noodles, does not change this. The unavailability of genuine Vorarlberger Käsknöpfle outside of “the Ländle” (as Austria’s westernmost federal state is affectionately called by its residents) is due to both the ingredients and an indispensable kitchen utensil – the so-called “Knöpfler”. Good Knöpflers are made of metal and are passed down from generation to generation in Vorarlberg. Mine still comes from my grandfather. The Knöpfler is used to transport the dough made from eggs and flour into the boiling saltwater in droplets. Genuine Käsknöpfle are always made fresh, without using pre-produced pasta. In a separate pan, sliced onions are lightly salted and sautéed in butter until caramelized. Thus the real challenge of production are not the four basic ingredients – eggs, flour, onions, and butter – but rather an olfactory quintessence that is ubiquitous in Vorarlberg but rare and expensive elsewhere: cheese, of alpine farmer’s origin and with a strong smell, aged for several months (at least 4 months matured Räßkäse and 6-8 months matured mountain cheese). Relatives and friends from home know about the shortage abroad. They always bring several kilograms of cheese when they visit me. This cheese can also be enjoyed raw when homesickness strikes. However, only in the shape of Käsknöpfle this cheese reaches its perfection! Served hot it produces endless strings that can be wrapped around a fork like spaghetti. No money can buy this delicious dish in other parts of the world. The only way to obtain it is via a private invitation from a trusted Vorarlbergian. By the way, if you ever pass by the beautiful Austrian province of Vorarlberg – the most legendary Käsknöpfle can be found in Schönenbach in the Bregenzerwald. An Guata!

© Stefan Hampl 2023-02-18

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